Emolid ISN: First in its class, deforestation free, fully vegetable, silicone replacement.

Emolid ISN: First in its class, deforestation free, fully vegetable, silicone replacement.

It is a unique not palm derived origin emollient which gives pleasant sensorial during application due to it’s high degree of spreadability.  

Features

Typical Properties

AppearanceColourless and odourless light ester
Sensory AnalysisSilicone like emollient
Pour Point-60 °C
Refractive index1,4350

Cosmetic Interest:

  • Silicone free formulations.
  • Non palm content formulations.
  • Luxurious feeling.
  • Perfect dry time during application without greasy touch.
  • Good spreadability.
  • Excellent solubility in silicones, polar and non-polars oils.
  • Natural cleansing ability.

Ideal for use:

  • Face & Body care
  • Sun care
  • Hair care
  • Colour Cosmetics

Spreading Ability:

The surface area of the liquid and speed of spread of Emolid ISN have been compared with cyclomethicone, ethylhexyl Isononanoate and Emolid CC. The results are shown in the following graphs:

Surface Area of Liquid

Speed of Spread

 In these graphs, Emolid ISN was compared with a typical used silicone replacement ester of petrochemical origin, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, and a low-viscosity silicone. The speed of Spread is very similar, but the surface area of the esters is higher characteristic needed to conferee the lightness feeling in a fatty acid based product.

Replacing Silicones

Graphic 1:

Comparation during application

Graphic 2:

Comparation after application

The sensorial during application is almost same, after application as Emolid ISN penetrates and Cyclometicone evaporates there are light differences

Emulsions Friendly vs Silicone

The photos down below show the size of the droplets on the emulsion using Emolid ISN, Cyclomethicone and Silicone 50 cs.

The formula with Emolid ISN is very homogeneous so the formation of the emulsion is very stable.

This performance is thanks to the better solubility of the Emolid ISN which helps the incorporation of all the ingredients of the fatty phase and equilibrate better with the polarity of the emulsifier. 

Comparing Emolid ISN vs Market Silicone Replacements

Sensorial profile of Emolid ISN was compared with natural products widely used as silicone replacements in cosmetics formulations as Isoamyl Laurate and C15-C19 alkane.

Comparing Emolid ISN with Isoamyl Laurate

Comparing Emolid ISN with C15-C19 alkane

Emolid ISN has better absorbency, less residue, and elegant after feeling with less gloss in both cases.

Emolid ISN in Colour Cosmetics

Emolid ISN is a fast-spreading emollient that leaves a minimally perceptible residual film on the skin.

Oils with low viscosity increase the slipperiness of a lipstick. Emolid ISN in sticks imparts lubricity, reduces the coefficient of friction, and reduces dragging.

It can be also used in the pigment premix as a base fluid when lower viscosities are required.

The usage of Emolid ISN in creams in colour cosmetics is specially recommended for BB or CC creams, long wear foundations, coverage concealers, serum powdered foundations, body foundations… in general any product containing pigments were a luminous skin-like Finnish is required. 

Can be used with silicones in low modulate the final gloss of the applied product. 

Emolid ISN in Facial Oils & Oil based serums

Emolid ISN is ideal for formulations of natural facial oils to modulate extensibility and residual oiliness. 

It has good compatibility with plant-derived and essential oils extracted from fruits, seeds and flowers of many aromatic plants. 

It is suitable for all skin types, it is not comedogenic, so it does not clog the pores and don’t leave the skin greasy. 

Emolid ISN is compatible with natural oils as jojoba, linen, chia, rosehip, Virgin marula, black cumin and meadowfoam oils. Emolid ISN boosts its absorption for a deep nourishing and softening of the skin.

Emolid ISN in combination with natural oils is ideal for fighting the dull appearance of skin and giving it firmness, elasticity, and luminosity.

Emolid ISN Silicone Based Hair Oils

Silicones work well for dry hair by creating a layer to keep hair hydrated from within. However, this protective layer also blocks other nourishing ingredients from penetrating deep into the hair follicle. 

So, over a longer time frame, silicones can also cause build-up on your hair, resulting in a dry feel and dull appearance. 

However, this situation can be prevented if the roots of the hair are nourished with regular natural oils. 

Here is where Emolid ISN plays with silicones.

Thanks to its good compatibility with most of silicones natural emollience can be added to the silicone-based product without giving a heavy feeling. 

Depending on the type of silicone-based oil or formulation quantities used can move from 0,25% or 2%.

Emolid ISN in Cleansing Oil & Gels

Ethylhexyl Pelargonate (Soldoc VF 9 N), a petrochemical derived molecule with high performance in cleansing products, was compared to Emolid ISN.

Waterproof eyeliner and Waterproof lipstick were used in this test. A line of each one was drawn in the forearm. Then, two cotton stick each one with a pure emollient were pushed and moved down in the skin at the same time, strength, and speed.

Waterproof eyeliner

Soldoc VF 9 N             Emolid ISN

Waterproof Lipstick

Soldoc VF 9 N             Emolid ISN

Product added to compare.