Performance:
- Formula viscoelasticity enhancer.
- Texturizer.
- Formula stabilizer.
- Low oiliness after feeling.
- High gloss.
- Film-former.
- Water repellence.
- Anti-transfer.
- Sensorial richness improver.
- Viscosity builder.
- Pigment suspension ability.
- High adhesiveness.
Typical Properties:
Appearance | Clear to slightly hazy liquid, odorless. |
Viscosity (20°C) | 21020 m.Pa·s |
Surface tension (Room Temperature) | 26 mN/m |
Refractive Index (25°C) | 1,4833 |
Ideal for use:
- Face & Body Care
- Sun care
- Hair care
- Colour Cosmetics
Solubility:
Product | Emolid DD | Product | Emolid DD | Product | Emolid DD |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mineral Oil | Soluble | Triethylhexanoin | Soluble | Sorbitan sesquioleate | Soluble |
Olive Oil | Soluble | Diisosteary Malate | Soluble | Polysorbate 80 | Soluble |
Jojoba Oil | Soluble | Cyclomethicone | Insoluble | Butylene glycol | Insoluble (D) |
Castor Oil | Soluble | Dimethicone (100 cs) | Insoluble | Ethanol | Insoluble |
Soluble // Almost soluble // Insoluble (dispersing) // Insoluble // Gel
Emolid DD helps to stabilize formulations O/W and W/O.
The following pictures shown the different particle sizes of a O/W formulation including 3% of Emolid DD and without.
Tested formula:
STD formula | Without Emolid DD | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
Phase | Trade Name | INCI | W/W | W/W |
A | Waglinol 1449NG | Isononyl isononanoate | 2,00 | 2,00 |
Salacos 913 | Isotridecyl isononanoate | 3,00 | 3,00 | |
Soldoc 3/92HG | Triisostearin | 3,00 | 3,00 | |
Emolid CC | Coco-caprylate caprate | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Emolid DD | Vegetable polymer | 3,00 | - | |
Emolid ISN | Isooctyl Nonanoate | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Emolid BDGA | Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 | 1,50 | 1,50 | |
Salacos 334 | Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride | 1,00 | 1,00 | |
Alcohol 270 | Cetearyl alcohol | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Lasemul 92 AE | Glyceryl stearate SE | 4,00 | 4,00 | |
Aceite de jojoba | Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | 0,50 | 0,50 | |
Tocopherol 100 | Tocopherol | 0,25 | 0,25 | |
B | - | Water | 56,10 | 59,10 |
Glycerin | Glycerin | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Niacinamide | Niacinamide | 1,00 | 1,00 | |
Nomcort AG | Agar, xanthan gum | 0,50 | 0,50 | |
Sal ac.hialurónico | Hyaluronic acid | 0,50 | 0,50 | |
Urea | Urea | 10,00 | 10,00 | |
Hydroviton 24 | Aqua (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Lactic Acid (and) Serine (and) Urea (and) Sorbitol (and) Sodium Chloride (and) Allantoin | 1,50 | 1,50 | |
Salycilic acid | Salycilic acid | 0,45 | 0,45 | |
Carbopol ultrez 10 | Carbomer | 0,50 | 0,50 | |
Symdiol 68 | 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyc glycol | 1,00 | 1,00 | |
Cucumber melon | Perfume | 0,20 | 0,20 | |
NaOH | NaOH | 2,00 | 2,00 |
Photography from microscope Sensofar S-neox lenses x10 and x20 was taken to compare both formulations.
It’s clearly visible that the presence of Emolid DD helps to reduce the droplet particle size.
Smaller micelles promote kinetic stability of cosmetic formulation opposes sedimentation and flocculation.
Emolid DD improves viscoelasticity due to its polymeric nature and film forming capacity.
This property is especially useful when the formula contents dispersions of minerals for color cosmetics and sun care as the presence of solids tend to damage the viscoelas- ticity properties.
STD formula | Without Emolid DD | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
Phase | Trade Name | INCI | W/W | W/W |
A | Emolid CC | Coco-caprylate caprate | 10,00 | 10,00 |
Permulgin 4212 | Microcrystalline wax | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Emolid BB | Behenyl behenate | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Emolid DD | Vegetable polymer | 5,00 | 5,00 | |
Nomcort HK-G | glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate | 5,00 | 5,00 | |
Salacos EH | Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate | 12,00 | 12,00 | |
Soldoc PDI | Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate | 5,00 | 5,00 | |
Emolid BDGA | Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Emolid ISN | Isooctyl Nonanoate | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
EHS | Ethylhexyl salicylate | 4,00 | 4,00 | |
EHT | Ethylhexyl triazone | 1,50 | 1,50 | |
DHHB | Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl ben- zoate | 1,50 | 1,50 | |
BEMT | Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl tria- zine | 5,00 | 5,00 | |
Tocopherol 100 | Tocopherol | 0,20 | 0,20 | |
B | - | Water | 39,90 | 39,90 |
Glycerin | Glycerin | 2,00 | 2,00 | |
Symdiol 68 | 1.2-hexanediol, caprylyc glicol | 0,70 | 0,70 | |
Citric acid | Citric acid | QS | QS | |
C | Esencia aroma- tica cucumber melon | Perfume | 0,20 | 0,20 |
Formula comparison:
Test 1:
Test 2:
Viscosity profile of Emolid DD was evaluated with Rheometer.
Emolid DD vs Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a high molecular weight polyol ester, commonly used in the cosmetic industry, for this reason has been chosen to be compared with Emolid DD.
Viscosity comparison
The graph above shows that Emolid DD has a much higher viscosity than Soldoc VF 4/18 HG (PTIS).
However, as we can see in the following graph the oiliness effect of Soldoc VF 4/18 HG in relation of its viscosity is higher than Emolid DD that tends to reduce with the time.
Sebometer test comparison
This means that Emolid DD is easily absorbed leaving a protective silky film on the skin not oily. No residue and no greasy.
The protective silky film is noticeably even in small dosages.
Due to the good affinity with pigments and rheological synergy Emolid DD helps to stabilize mineral pigment dispersions.
Ingredients | Blank | EmolidDD | |
---|---|---|---|
A | EmolidDD | 0.00 | 1.00 |
Salacos913 | 36.40 | 35.40 | |
Cyclopentasiloxane | 8.00 | 8.00 | |
PEG-10Dimethicone | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
PhenylTrimethicone | 0.50 | 0.50 | |
NomcortTAB | 10.00 | 10.00 | |
DispersionofZincOxide | 8.00 | 8.00 | |
DispersionofTitaniumDioxido | 6.60 | 6.60 | |
B | SodiumChloride | 2.00 | 2.00 |
Alcohol | 5.00 | 5.00 | |
ButyleneGlycol | 5.00 | 5.00 | |
Glycerin | 2.00 | 2.00 | |
Water | 15.50 | 15.50 |
Creates a high-luster lipstick formulation by high refractive index.
- High Refractive Index.
- Heat and Oxidative Stability.
- Good Pigment Dispersing.
- Good Adhesiveness.
- Intense Color.
- Good Spreadability.
Excellent for Waterproof make-up: Highly Recommend for lipstick, lip balms and foundations.
Emolid DD forms a stable film on the skin and on the surface of the hair, this film has double benefit:
• It protects the skin/hair from the environmental stress. - It does not let moisture escape of the skin or hair
- Excellent Gloss. Natural shine.
- Good adhesiveness.
- Recommendable for hair wax and mascara formulations.
Hair care conditioner and styling products.
Emolid DD gives an excellent gloss with natural finish
It’s clearly visible that the presence of Emolid DD helps to increase hair shine.