Emolid DD: Polymeric emollient, texturizer, low oiliness after feeling, water repellence.

Film-forming emollient

High viscosity vegetable polymer 100% natural derived.

Performance:

  • Formula viscoelasticity enhancer.
  • Texturizer.
  • Formula stabilizer.
  • Low oiliness after feeling.
  • High gloss.
  • Film-former.
  • Water repellence.
  • Anti-transfer.
  • Sensorial richness improver.
  • Viscosity builder.
  • Pigment suspension ability.
  • High adhesiveness.

Typical Properties:

AppearanceClear to slightly hazy liquid, odorless.
Viscosity (20°C)21020 m.Pa·s
Surface tension (Room Temperature)26 mN/m
Refractive Index (25°C)1,4833

Ideal for use:

  • Face & Body Care
  • Sun care
  • Hair care
  • Colour Cosmetics

Solubility:

ProductEmolid DDProductEmolid DDProductEmolid DD
Mineral OilSolubleTriethylhexanoinSolubleSorbitan sesquioleateSoluble
Olive OilSolubleDiisosteary MalateSolublePolysorbate 80Soluble
Jojoba OilSolubleCyclomethiconeInsolubleButylene glycolInsoluble (D)
Castor OilSolubleDimethicone (100 cs)InsolubleEthanolInsoluble

Soluble // Almost soluble // Insoluble (dispersing) // Insoluble // Gel

Emolid DD helps to stabilize formulations O/W and W/O.

The following pictures shown the different particle sizes of a O/W formulation including 3% of Emolid DD and without.

Tested formula:

STD formulaWithout Emolid DD
PhaseTrade NameINCIW/WW/W
AWaglinol 1449NGIsononyl isononanoate2,002,00
Salacos 913Isotridecyl isononanoate3,003,00
Soldoc 3/92HGTriisostearin3,003,00
Emolid CCCoco-caprylate caprate2,002,00
Emolid DDVegetable polymer3,00-
Emolid ISNIsooctyl Nonanoate2,002,00
Emolid BDGABis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-21,501,50
Salacos 334Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride1,001,00
Alcohol 270Cetearyl alcohol2,002,00
Lasemul 92 AEGlyceryl stearate SE4,004,00
Aceite de jojobaSimmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil0,500,50
Tocopherol 100Tocopherol0,250,25
B-Water56,1059,10
GlycerinGlycerin2,002,00
NiacinamideNiacinamide1,001,00
Nomcort AGAgar, xanthan gum0,500,50
Sal ac.hialurónicoHyaluronic acid0,500,50
UreaUrea10,0010,00
Hydroviton 24Aqua (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Lactic Acid (and) Serine (and) Urea (and) Sorbitol (and) Sodium Chloride (and) Allantoin1,501,50
Salycilic acidSalycilic acid0,450,45
Carbopol ultrez 10Carbomer0,500,50
Symdiol 681,2-hexanediol, caprylyc glycol1,001,00
Cucumber melonPerfume0,200,20
NaOHNaOH2,002,00

Photography from microscope Sensofar S-neox lenses x10 and x20 was taken to compare both formulations.

It’s clearly visible that the presence of Emolid DD helps to reduce the droplet particle size.

Smaller micelles promote kinetic stability of cosmetic formulation opposes sedimentation and flocculation.

Emolid DD improves viscoelasticity due to its polymeric nature and film forming capacity.

This property is especially useful when the formula contents dispersions of minerals for color cosmetics and sun care as the presence of solids tend to damage the viscoelas- ticity properties.

STD formulaWithout Emolid DD
PhaseTrade NameINCIW/WW/W
AEmolid CCCoco-caprylate caprate10,0010,00
Permulgin 4212Microcrystalline wax2,002,00
Emolid BBBehenyl behenate2,002,00
Emolid DDVegetable polymer5,005,00
Nomcort HK-Gglyceryl behenate/eicosadioate5,005,00
Salacos EHEthylhexyl hydroxystearate12,0012,00
Soldoc PDIDiisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate5,005,00
Emolid BDGABis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-22,002,00
Emolid ISNIsooctyl Nonanoate2,002,00
EHSEthylhexyl salicylate4,004,00
EHTEthylhexyl triazone1,501,50
DHHBDiethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl ben- zoate1,501,50
BEMTBis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl tria- zine5,005,00
Tocopherol 100Tocopherol0,200,20
B-Water39,9039,90
GlycerinGlycerin2,002,00
Symdiol 681.2-hexanediol, caprylyc glicol0,700,70
Citric acidCitric acidQSQS
CEsencia aroma- tica cucumber melonPerfume0,200,20

Formula comparison:

Test 1:

Test 2:

Viscosity profile of Emolid DD was evaluated with Rheometer.

Emolid DD vs Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a high molecular weight polyol ester, commonly used in the cosmetic industry, for this reason has been chosen to be compared with Emolid DD.

Viscosity comparison

The graph above shows that Emolid DD has a much higher viscosity than Soldoc VF 4/18 HG (PTIS).

However, as we can see in the following graph the oiliness effect of Soldoc VF 4/18 HG in relation of its viscosity is higher than Emolid DD that tends to reduce with the time.

Sebometer test comparison

This means that Emolid DD is easily absorbed leaving a protective silky film on the skin not oily. No residue and no greasy.

The protective silky film is noticeably even in small dosages.

Due to the good affinity with pigments and rheological synergy Emolid DD helps to stabilize mineral pigment dispersions.

IngredientsBlankEmolidDD
AEmolidDD0.001.00
Salacos91336.4035.40
Cyclopentasiloxane8.008.00
PEG-10Dimethicone1.001.00
PhenylTrimethicone0.500.50
NomcortTAB10.0010.00
DispersionofZincOxide8.008.00
DispersionofTitaniumDioxido6.606.60
BSodiumChloride2.002.00
Alcohol5.005.00
ButyleneGlycol5.005.00
Glycerin2.002.00
Water15.5015.50

Creates a high-luster lipstick formulation by high refractive index.

  • High Refractive Index.
  • Heat and Oxidative Stability.
  • Good Pigment Dispersing.
  • Good Adhesiveness.
  • Intense Color.
  • Good Spreadability.

Excellent for Waterproof make-up: Highly Recommend for lipstick, lip balms and foundations.

Emolid DD forms a stable film on the skin and on the surface of the hair, this film has double benefit:

• It protects the skin/hair from the environmental stress. - It does not let moisture escape of the skin or hair

  • Excellent Gloss. Natural shine.
  • Good adhesiveness.
  • Recommendable for hair wax and mascara formulations.

Hair care conditioner and styling products.

Emolid DD gives an excellent gloss with natural finish

It’s clearly visible that the presence of Emolid DD helps to increase hair shine.

Product added to compare.